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Rope Soloing


HowNOT2 Course

How to climb by yourself... with a rope

It can be hard to find someone to go climbing with. You don't have to free solo to climb alone. This is a basic guide to how it works and some of the gear you can use.


Luke Strier is the main author of this project. He is an enthusiast rope soloist but is not an expert or certified instructor. Contact him if you want to help add ideas, images or links to other resources you found helpful. Yes, we will be making episodes break testing solo stuff! Sign up for our Newsletter HERE so you don't miss it when we do


Warning!: Climbing is inherently dangerous and rope soloing adds several additional layers of risk. It can result in serious injuries and or death! The information in this guide is to be used at your own risk. You solely are responsible for your actions and decisions. This is a basic guide to rope soloing and does not cover every aspect of rope soloing. The information in this guide is meant to serve as a baseline for rope soloing. There are other/more techniques that may be more applicable to your specific climb.

 

Tables of Contents

TOP ROPE SOLOING

LEAD ROPE SOLOING


Rules of Soloing

Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence” ~Hermann Buhl


If you want to successfully complete your solo attempt and avoid scaring the shit out of yourself, injuring yourself, or killing yourself, always make sure you're exercising good practice and common sense. Always have these rules going through your head:

  1. Always know how you are attached. Make sure you clip the load stand of your rope, clipped into the belay device correctly, clipped into anchors…

  2. Always double check everything! Your only partner in rope solos in your belay device and it won't double check you. so be a good partner to yourself and double check your systems and gear!

  3. Educate yourself! Knowledge is your lightest and most powerful tool. You should know how to use all of your gear and systems very well and be able to problem solve if something goes wrong.


No one to check you? Watch this!


Top Rope Soloing


Introduction to Top Rope Soloing

“The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!” ~ Alex Lowe


Top Rope Soloing is the simplest form of rope soloing. It's a very effective way to work the moves on your project for as long as you want without having to drag a belayer along. This form of soloing predominantly shines on single pitch climbing but can be used if there's a fixed line on a multipitch. This can also be an effective way of climbing a lot of routes if they are in close proximity.


There are tons of combinations and ways of doing the simple act of toprope soloing, therefore it would be nearly impossible for me to write about them all. This section just covers the ways I like to do things and what is efficient and works for me. Do your own research and see what works for you.


Top Rope Soloing Devices

“A man does not climb a mountain without bringing some of it away with him and leaving something of himself upon it.” ~Sir Martin Conway


There are a lot of good options for top rope soloing, I only provided 2 popular options. It is very important you do your own research and understand the limitations, breaking strength and effects your device has on the rope.


Petzl- GriGri

A GriGri is nice because it is something that all or most climbers will have and it is very reliable and simple to use. They will start self feeding once there is enough rope weight however that takes awhile. With this assisted braking device you will have to pull enough slack through for a few moves and repeat as you run out or rope to move.


How to use: To load the GriGri for a solo it is extremely important that you load the rope using the climber logo connected to the anchor at the top and the hand logo is the free slack . If you load this device backwards it will not catch you!


Progress Capturing Device

These devices are very popular for top rope soloing because they self feed so you can just focus on climbing. However, There are drawbacks to this system; I bet you didn't think about how you were going to get down… I didn't and had to work some magic to get down. So With this device you will need a PAS and rappel device in addition to your chosen progress capture pulley.


How to use: Rig your device so that the teeth are facing down, this allows you to to climb without pulling rope through but if you fall it will catch you wherever you are on the rope. Once you are at the top attach you PAS to your anchor and change over to your rappel device, it is very similar to cleaning a sport pitch and rappelling off. Note: Make sure that you engage the teeth!!! If you forget to engage the teeth you won't have to worry about getting down anymore.


Backups

“Getting to the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory.” ~ Ed Viesturs


Backups are a good idea when you are climbing alone. Backups can look different depending on the method you are using; it can vary from knots to belay devices.

  1. Overhand on a bight- tie an overhand every 5 or 10 feet as a knot that will block your belay device if it slips or fails. This backup works best on the loop method.

  2. Traction device under your main- extend your backup device on a locking quickdraw under your main device so that if your main fails your backup will catch you. This backup works best on the fixed single stand method.

  3. GriGri Backup- Extend your GriGri on a locking quick draw on a separate stand. Pull slack through every few moves. Using the GriGri as your backup allows you to move up and down the rope while using another device that is more efficient at self feeding. This backup works best on the fixed double stand method.

Refer to “Backups” for more options.


Toprope Soloing Methods

“To be a climber one has to accept that gratification is rarely immediate.” ~ Bernadette McDonald


Choose a system that will work the best for you, some of these methods require a lot of gear and some do not. Keep in mind the terrain you're in, if there's a roof on route the loop method probably will not work very well as it may be hard to pull if it's rubbing on rock.


Loop Method

This is the simplest system to use while top rope soloing, however I find it clunky and inefficient. With this system you will have to pull double the amount of rope through your belay device compared to the other methods. I would only do this if I was taking a friend climbing that doesn't know how to belay because it will leave the rope set up for their climb and your solo. Set up your top rope anchor the same way you normally would. Now with both strands on the bottom of the cliff tie into one end of the rope and load your GriGri and attach it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. Now climb and as you reach a comfortable spot every few moves pull the slack though your GriGri. I would recommend that you backup the system every 5-10 feet.


Fixed Single Strand

This system is much more efficient and would work well in most applications. To set this up you will need to know how to fix a line (Fixed Lines). I generally will use a Super 8 and go directly to the bolts with locking carabiners and adjust the length of the “Ears" to be equalized. Now at the bottom attach your chosen device to the rope and climb pulling slack through as you go. You can add another device in the system using a locking quickdraw on your belay loop under your main device.


Tip: use a progress capture device on your rope and coil the end of your rope so that it's hanging from itself. This allows the device to self feed so all you have to do is climb.


Fixed Double Strand

This system is the best for working moves on your project because it has a higher safety margin and the easy ability to move up and down the rope. To set this up you will need to know how to fix a line (Fixed Lines). Find the halfway point in your rope and tie a super 8 and clip that into your anchor with lockers. You will need 2 devices, attach one to each strand of rope and climb, feeding rope as you go.


Tips: Use a GriGri on one strand and a progress capturing device on the other. Coil the ends of your rope so that it's hanging from itself (2 coils, 1 coil per strand). Now as you climb the device should self feed and when you reach the top or a part you need to try a few times to remove your traction device or disengage the teeth to move down the rope.


Gear List

“Mountains are not fair or unfair, they are just dangerous.” ~ Reinhold Messner

The following is a simple gear list with any gear that you will need or may need as well as some extra gear that can be useful.


Required Gear

  • Rope

  • Anchor slings

  • Locking carabiners

  • Solo device

  • Rappel device (ATC)

Personal Equipment

  • Harness

  • Shoes

  • Chalk bag

  • PAS (Personal Anchor System)

  • Helmet

  • First Aid


Optional Gear

  • Prusik (Third Hand)

  • Emergency Device (InReach)


Lead Rope Soloing


Introduction to Lead Rope Soloing

“The mountains are calling and I must go.” ~ John Muir


Lead rope soloing is a very niche type of climbing that not very many people know how to do compared to the number of climbers in the world. This is designed to be an introduction into lead rope soloing catering to a beginner soloist; However, my hope is that anybody who solos, beginner to expert, can take something from this resource.


I learned how to rope solo while in college when I should have been studying but went climbing instead and couldn't find partners to go with me because it was the middle of the day during the week. If you're like me and you do not find bouldering fun and top rope solos don't engage you enough but you're too scared to free solo then this is probably your next logical progression. Lead soloing can be done in a huge variety of styles. The following are the various styles from easiest to hardest based on a technicality and the amount of gear required:

  1. Single-pitch free climbs.

  2. Single pitch aid climbs.

  3. Multipitch free climbs.

  4. Multipitch aid climbs.

Some of these styles are very similar and do not require much more skill than the other however, each adds an extra step or more gear.


Risk Assessment and Mindset

"As a kid interested in the mountains, it really could not have been more ideal: an infinite amount of hiking and scrambling big and small stuff, and no rules or 'established norms.' It was an independent, choose your own adventure learning style." ~ Marc-Andre Leclerc


With soloing any climb it truly is a choose your own adventure type of climbing. You have to be completely responsible for yourself and know your limits. I often solo in remote places that aren't often frequented which is generally the nature of a solo. However, because I solo in remote areas I tend to air on the more cautious side. I built an equalized 5 point anchor in a horizontal crack for one of my solos. I was around a mile in the woods by myself where an injury would've made it near impossible to get out. I was uncomfortable with the circumstances so I made my anchor overkill intentionally. Think about all of the circumstances for your solo, know where you are, how to get out, who can you call that knows the area…


A strong mindset is important to be successful while you are in the woods by yourself climbing. Trust your gut, if something feels off or wrong listen to it; It may be something small that you can work through or maybe your headspace is wrong on that day. I've gone soloing on days when I had that “off” feeling and it was a miserable experience, it was scary and I didn't enjoy it at all. Know your limits and assess the risk level you are comfortable with!



Solo Belay Devices

“It don’t gotta be fun to be fun.” ~ Carl Tomblin


There is currently only one device on the market that is marketed as a lead rope solo device, the El Mudo 2.0, which seems like it is hard to get ahold of currently. However, there are some that still will work well for soloing. It is important that you are comfortable and familiar with your device before using it to solo.


Petzl- GriGri

If you're a climber chances are you already own a GriGri or an equivalent device. I started soloing with a Beal Birdie (Essentially the same device) and I find them finicky. They will start self feeding once there is enough rope weight however that takes awhile and means you can use a backpack or traction device. With this assisted braking device you will have to gently pull enough slack through for a few moves and repeat as you run out or rope to move.


How to use: To load the GriGri for a solo it is extremely important that you load the rope using the climber logo connected to the anchor and the hand logo is the free slack . If you load this device backwards it will not catch you. While climbing you pay out slack as you climb, it is super help to have a device to manage rope weight.


Wild Country- Revo

This device is similar to the silent partner although it is not marketed as a soloist device. This device is my preferred, because of its smooth feed which allows me to just focus on climbing. These features come with drawbacks although; I've read reports of this device desheathing a rope as well as it hitting a backup knot before it catches the climber. The Revo has to spin at a certain speed in order to cam, which could mean you take a bigger fall than a device like a GriGri.


How to Use: This device can not be loaded backward as it works in both orientations. As you climb it will free feed and if you fall the device will cam until you pull down on the brake strand deactivating the cam on the device.


ATC Guide (Placket Style Device)

This will work on any of the bands that make an ATC Guide device. This is not very valuable unless you are planning to solo with a twin rope system and weight will matter a lot. I wouldn't use this unless I was doing an alpine solo where I would need to do full rope length rappels or a route that wandered significantly.


If you're using this technique in a multipitch setting know how you plan to ascend the rope as your ascending gear may be too large for the thin ropes. This is the most advanced technique with a small number of benefits and should only be used if necessary. It is still good to know in case you dropped your primary device and this is the only other device you have.


How to use: To use an ATC Guide as a solo device you need to clip the eyelet on the back of the device to your belay loop using a locking carabiner. To load the ropes, load them in the same orientation you would to rappel with the brake exiting the front of the device (This will orient the device so that it will automatically break in the event of a fall).


NOTE: Rope diameter is very important! If the rope is too small it could flip and there may not be enough friction to hold a fall!


I have never had a chance to use this device although I would like to. This device is made with soloing in mind and feeds well based on what I've read and seen. You have to wear a chest harness which is a drawback for me and many others however I am still interested in trying it.

El Mudo Solo Climbing Device
El Mudo 3.0

Rock Exotica- Silent Partner

Rock Exotica does not make these anymore but it is a true soloist device and seems to be the go to choice for anyone lucky enough to own one. You can still find them occasionally although you may have to mortgage your house to acquire it. I personally have never used this device.


Techniques

“Better we raise our skill than lower the climb.” ~ Royal Robbins

There are many different ways to skin a cat. You need to decide what will work best for you and the environment you're in. Some of these methods are bare bone and some of them require a bit more gear.


Rope Management

This is one of the most important aspects to rope soloing; tangles can cause you to fall, clusters of rope may cause you to rig your belay device wrong, tangles take a lot of time to undo, you may get in someone else's way… and the list goes on.


Flaked stacks

This rope management method is the simplest and applies to single pitch climbing. To use this method, connect the rope to your anchor leaving about 10 feet of rope where you can rig your belay device, then flake the rest of your rope with the stopper knot on the bottom of the stack and the length of rope on your belay device at the top of the stack.


Backpack

You can use this method in a single or multi-pitch setting. Choose a comfortable backpack that can hold the length of your rope. Connect your rope to the anchor, then rig your belay device and flake the rest of your rope into the backpack with the stopper knot on the bottom of the bag.

Rope comes out of backpack to the belay device then through the protection
Rope bucket at belay station

Rope buckets

This one applies mostly to multi-pitch climbs. In order to keep long loops of rope hanging a pitch below you and holding people up you can use a rope bucket on equivalent. Clip the bucket to your anchor before you start your next pitch with the rope neatly flaked inside the bucket. This helps with organization as well as reminding you to flake it back into the bucket; it may take a bit more time but it's a lot faster and less scary than tangles mid pitch. If you don't have anything to use as a rope bucket you can take your rope tarp up and clip the corner to your anchor to hold the rope. A study grocery bag can also work well.


Clipping loops

This method creates large loops that dangle from your harness but it doubles as rope weight and strand separation mitigation as well as a backup. The drawback to this is if your device fails and you whip you may rip off a gear loop but you’ll live. There are two ways of doing this, multiple clipping points or single clipping points.

  1. Multiple clipping points- for this you will need a free gear loop and multiple carabiners (locking or non-locking). Start by adding overhand, slip knots, or clove hitches to your rope every 3-5 (or less or more) arm lengths as you flake. Each knot gets a carabiner clipped to a gear loop in order from first to last. As you climb unclip and untie the knots in order so that they can feed through your device.

  2. Single clipping points- for this you will 1 large carabiner or ice screw racking clip can work well. This works the same way the only difference is clip the knots in order on the same carabiner.


Rope Weight and Strand Separation

This only applies if you're not using a backpack to hold your rope. There’s a couple ways to combat rope weight which can be helpful for a few reasons; one is to make clipping easier and to isolate the slack stand of rope from the load stand; this makes it much easier to clip the load stand to the protection. I like to use a traction device on the leg loop to hold the rope weight.


Place the traction device on the rope so that the teeth are pointing to the sky then load the brake stand of rope in the device and clip it to your leg loop. A simple prusik can also hold the rope weight. If you just want to isolate the brake strand so you don't accidentally clip it you can just use a carabiner.

Carabiner on leg loop separates brake strand. This shows it with and without a traction device


Backups

A back up system is not necessary but it can be comforting and safer in general. There are a few options to use a backup system.


Knot back ups

Slip knot backup
Slip knot backup

To do this method you're just tying a knot that will clog your belay device if you take a fall and the device doesn't catch. A good knot for this is a slip knot, they are easily untied and can also stop your device (It is crucial that this is tied correctly, make sure your belay device is on the side of the knot that will tighten the knot on impact, not untie it). If you do not trust the slip knot a simple overhand on a bight will work as well. For the distance between knots I usually do 2 arm lengths.



Tying or clipping in

This method is quite effective for multi-pitch but also works in single pitch. Using a locking carabiner clove hitch a small loop to your belay loop. As you reach a comfortable stance, adjust the size of your loop or make a new one. This backup is nice because it creates a belay device back up as well; if your device or devices carabiner broke this can still save you (sounds dumb but it has happened before).

Backup: A clove hitch on a locker on a belay loop

Excess Slack Prevention

When you're climbing a long pitch rope, weight can make it very hard to tell the actual amount of slack in your system; This can lead to huge falls if you're unaware. In some cases this wouldn't matter as a bigger fall can be a softer catch. However, this can be super useful if your climb has ledges or other fall dangers.


The basis to mitigating fall potential is adding friction every so many pieces to hold the rope tight against the anchor. This method is relatively advanced as it has a lot of stipulations and considerations per each method. Although these can be used I would highly recommend against some friction hitches and any toothed devices. If you fall and these are in the system you may have a very very hard time getting your gear back. The rope will stretch as you fall and some hitches and any toothed devices will hold the rope in the stretched position making it incredibly hard to disengage the teeth.


I would use systems like an alpine butterfly or homemade friction widgets.

  • Alpine Butterfly- This is going to be very hard to tie while free climbing but can work for an aid solo.

  • Homemade Friction Widget- This can be anything that is going to hold the rope tight against the anchor. This can be as simple as a strong rubber band or something you made purposely for this task. Again, Make sure if you use this method your rope is running through your quickdraw and not just your device.

The left image is a rubber band doubled up to hold rope weight. The right image is a homemade widget using a paperclip and nitrile o-ring. Notice in all instances the rope runs through the actual quickdraw!


Fixed Lines

Fixed lines are very crucial to multi-pitch solos. Fixing the line to your anchor at the top of a pitch allows you to rappel the pitch to clean it and jumar back to the anchor. Fixing a line is very simple but can be done in a few ways. The knot you choose is going to be weighted so it's helpful to use a knot that can be untied easily. There are a lot of knots to use for this, the following are good options:


  • Figure 8

  • Super 8

  • Clove hitch w/ backup

  • Bowline w/ Scotts Lock finish


I personally like the clove hitch with a backup or the super 8 because of how easily they can be untied and the bowline with a Scotts Lock shines to rig a fixed line around a tree using your rope. With any of these it is a good idea to include a backup of some kind. There are a few good ways of tying these knots with good examples online.


Cleaning a Pitch

This section mostly applies to multi-pitch soloing but could still be valuable to think about for single pitch. Cleaning a pitch is a very basic skill although it can be dangerous if done incorrectly. When you reach your top anchor it is important to practice and think about two crucial things:

  1. Testing your rappel before you commit!

  2. Does the pitch wander around an obstruction?

It is incredibly important to test your rappel before you take yourself off of the anchor. To do this pull your belay device tight on the rappel stand so your weight is on the device and rappel stand not the anchor. This step ensures you have rigged your rappel device correctly and that your rappel stand is fixed and secured.


Once you've done this, you're going to want to start rappeling. As you descend the rope, you're going to want to think about whether the pitch wandered or traversed a significant amount around an obstruction. If it did it may be beneficial to leave that piece clipped to finish the rappel so you don't swing into something potentially harming yourself, rope, or your gear. In these situations, I will generally leave all of the pieces in the traverse clipped passing them on the descent. Once I've passed the traveling pieces and can rappel mostly straight down I will clean the rest of the pitch. When I am jumaring back up the pitch I will then clean my pieces from the traveling section.

Example passing gear during your rappel to avoid a violent swing.

Ascending a Pitch

Ascending applies to multi-pitch rope soloing. There are two methods to ascending a rope and one option may suit you better than the other but it is still helpful to understand both.

  1. Hand Ascender in combination with a GriGri

  2. Double Hand Ascenders with a backup device (Jumaring)

Ascend rope using a GriGri and ascender with the carabiner in the eye of the ascender.

The Hand Ascender in combination with a GriGri is in my opinion the easier way of ascending a rope just due to simplicity; although this method is less efficient and less versatile. To utilize this method you will need 1 aider, 1 GriGri (or similar), and 1 hand ascender. Connect the aider to the hand ascender, then attach the ascender to the fixed line. Now rig your GriGri as normal under the ascender. Pull as much slack through your system as possible making the rope tight. Now slide the ascender up the rope as high as you can then simultaneously stand up in your aider and pull the slack though the GriGri.


Tip: Place a carabiner in the hole at the top of the ascender and clip the brake strand into the carabiner; this allows you to pull the brake strand down instead of up making it a bit more efficient.


Double Hand Ascenders with a backup device (Jumaring) is slightly more efficient and versatile; it takes a lot of practice to get proficient at, however, this method is very variable based on the terrain you are ascending and would be lengthy and hard to understand by reading. There are great resources on how to do this on YouTube.


Anchors

“We should be less afraid to be afraid." ~ Emily Harrington


Anchors are one of the most important parts of a successful rope solo. Anchors in rope soloing are your partner, they don't belay you but they definitely keep you alive. Treat your anchor like your partner; If you don't trust it, get a new one.


Natural Anchors

An anchor at the base of a pitch on a tree

This is a good option if you do not own trad gear but you want to solo a sport climb. Natural anchor can be made out of anything beneath the climb if it is undoubtedly strong. Trees can be a good option, I will use something living and no smaller than my thigh. If you have a cluster of 6” diameter trees equalize a few of them to a master point, make sure they have solid roots, that is very very crucial.


Another option is to build an anchor using boulders; make sure the boulders are large enough! If you have a couple boulders that are almost large enough you can equalize them. If you are using rocks that have sharp edges or the anchor is going to move up and down, make sure you pad the rock so that it doesn't see through your anchor material.


If you are using a natural anchor while trad climbing be aware of the positioning of the natural objects you're using to build your anchor. If it is not close to the wall or inline with your route it is possible to zipper your pitch if you take a whip.



Trad Anchors

Building a trad anchor for a solo is almost exactly the same as building a normal trad anchor in a multi-pitch or top rope setting. The only difference is that you want the anchor's direction of pull to be upward and in the direction of your route. It is preferred to clove hitch or tie an alpine butterfly to the first piece or place a piece above the anchor for this purpose. This is important because it will keep the anchor pieces from walking. If you have at least 3 bomber pieces and good rock it is super good enough.


You can see in the left photo the cam cluster and in the right photo a butterfly at the first bolt to hold the anchor in position.


Bolted Anchors

This is the simplest and fastest anchor style to use. I prefer a quad anchor using lockers and clove hitching my first piece or a placement specifically to hold the anchor up. This isn't common to find in a single pitch setting because the bolts need to be at the base of the climb.

A quad anchor on bolts for multi-pitch

How To Put it Together

“I’ve done a lot of thinking about fear. For me the crucial question is not how to climb without fear―that’s impossible―but how to deal with it when it creeps into your nerve endings.”

~ Alex Honnald


Single Pitch Solo

This is the simplest form of rope soloing. The following is a step by step for rope soloing a single pitch climb:

  1. Rig an anchor at the base of your selected climb. (Anchors)

  2. Flake the remainder of your rope into a pile, backpack, or rope bucket with your selected backup if you're using one. (Rope Management / Backups)

  3. Rig your selected belay device a meter or two from your anchor. IMPORTANT: double check you've rigged it correctly! (Solo Belay Devices)

  4. Rig your rope weight and strand separation system if you're choosing to use one. (Rope Weight and Strand Separation)

  5. Double check your system! I know it sounds dumb and redundant; nerves are generally high before a rope solo and it's very easy to make mistakes, especially without a partner to double check your systems. Be a good partner to yourself and double check these things:

    1. Anchor is strong and redundant.

    2. Belay device is oriented properly and your carabiner is locked

    3. The rope is flaked and not tangled

    4. Your rope weight management system/strand separation device is on the slack end of the rope, not the load stand.

    5. Your harness is double-backed, your helmet is tight and buckled, and you have all the gear you will or may need.

  6. Now you're ready to climb. Climb to your first piece, adjusting the amount of slack in the load stands accordingly. Clip your load strand to the piece; At this point, your rope should be running from the anchor, to your first piece, then to your belay device. (Next graphic)

  7. Now you can continue climbing and clipping each piece to the top in the same manner as before.

  8. Once you've reached the anchors you have two options.

    1. Lower off the climb

    2. Clip in your PAS to clean your anchor then the route as you lower off and clean the anchor at the bottom once you're down.

Now you have completed your first successful rope solo!


The image above is an example of what a rope solo should look like. The section of rope highlighted in green (load strand) should always run from the anchor through the protection into the “Climber Side” of your belay device. If you clip the red highlighted (brake strand) length of rope through the protection it pulls through and you will hit the ground. If you rig your belay device wrong (flipping the strands in the device) it will not cam and you will at all and you will also hit the ground.


Multi Pitch Solo

The following is a step by step for rope soloing a multi pitch climb. These instructions assume you are already familiar, comfortable, and competent in single pitch rope soloing as well as multi pitch climbing with a partner:

  1. Be very comfortable and good at steps 1-8 of single pitch soloing (Single Pitch Soloing)

  2. Construct your anchor at the top of the pitch. Multidirectional is preferable so that you do not need to rebuild it to start the next pitch. (Anchors)

  3. Attach yourself to the anchor and remove your solo device unless your planning to rappel with it

  4. Fix your line to your anchor at the free end of your rope. Rig a rappel device on the fixed line. TEST IT BEFORE YOU COMMIT! (Fixed Lines)

  5. Rappel the pitch, cleaning each piece on the way down. A GriGri or similar device makes this step easier and safer. (Cleaning a Pitch)

  6. Clean your anchor at the bottom of the pitch.

  7. Jumar (ascend) the pitch back to the anchor you previously built. (Ascending a Pitch)

  8. Flake your rope tying any backup knots if you're choosing to use them. (Rope Management / Backups)

  9. Rig your soloing device on the rope and repeat all of these steps until you reach the top of your route.

Gear List

“Climbing is an artistic, creative thing; it’s about being spontaneous, traveling, seeing the world, hanging out. It’s a balance of setting goals while enjoying the process, being ambitious without being too competitive.” ~ Chris Sharma

Single Pitch Soloing Gear

The following is a simple gear list with any gear that you will need or may need as well as some extra gear that can be useful.

Required Gear

  • Rope

  • Rack (any gear you'll need for your selected route)

  • Anchor slings

  • Locking carabiners

  • Solo device

Personal Equipment

  • Harness

  • Shoes

  • Chalk bag

  • PAS (Personal Anchor System)

  • Helmet

  • First Aid

Optional Gear

  • Traction device or backpack

  • Prusik

  • Rappel device (ATC)

  • Bail Carabiner

  • Emergency Device (InReach)


Multi-Pitch Soloing Gear

The following is a simple gear list with any gear that you will need or may need as well as some extra gear that can be useful.

Required Gear

  • Rope

  • Rack (any gear you'll need for your selected route)

  • Anchor slings

  • Locking carabiners

  • Solo device

  • Ascender(s)

  • Aiders (Ladder)

Personal Equipment

  • Harness

  • Shoes

  • Chalk bag

  • PAS (Personal Anchor System)

  • Helmet

  • First Aid

Optional Gear

  • Traction device or backpack

  • Prusik

  • Rappel device (ATC)

  • Bail Carabiner

  • Emergency Device (InReach)

  • Route topo

  • Gloves

  • Free Carabiners

  • Food

  • Water

Other Resources

We highly recommend Bliss Climbing if you are interested in roped soloing. He has dedicated years to making almost 100 videos specifically on the topic. He has a course that is approximately 10,000x cheaper than 1 USA hospital bill. Go take it!


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