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Ropes vs ice - which one breaks first in a V thread?

If the rope breaks before the ice, it's super good enough. At 10+ kN with 21cm long ice screws in glacier ice, you are almost a 10:1 safety ratio for a rappel since the average rappel is only 1kN. If you are going to rig a highline with ice anchors, drilling some deep v threads with 9mm or 10mm rope is going to give you 20+ kn. The 10mm rope in a loop form like we installed in the ice breaks in the slacksnap machine around 28kn. Equalize two or three of those and you have a bomber anchor. Note: this is in glacier ice which has a mixed grain and water fall ice may react differently since it forms differently.

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Behind the Scenes

We planned an ice screw break test video but for all the work it takes to get to Iceland, get the team together, and to get the break test gear out to the ice, we figured we should test V threads since we knew it would be requested as soon as we put out the ice screw video. And it was. Many comments asked for V threads and I assume there will be many requests for these tests to be done in waterfall ice which we plan on doing soon-ish.

Watch this one next


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